![](Images/237097-5.GIF)
5 |
Push in the end of the dielectric
spacer to allow for conductor tab cutting. Cut the outer
conductor at 3/16" (5 mm) intervals to form tabs. Bend and
gently flatten the tabs against the splice body and the
threaded body using the plastic rod and mallet, but do not
thin the copper. File off any burrs and then clean the tabs
with solvent.
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![](Images/237097-6.GIF)
6 |
Pull the dielectric spacer out and
trim it flush with the outer conductor tabs. Then file the
inner conductor to within 1/8" (3 mm) of these tabs and
remove any loose particles. Screw the inner stub and the
conductor far enough to allow cutting notches in the
conductor.
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![](Images/237097-7.GIF)
7 |
Cut about 8 V-notches 18" (3 mm)
deep in the inner conductor with metal snips. Unscrew the
inner stub until its outer tapered edge is aligned with the
inner conductor notches and the outer conductor tabs.
Bend an inner conductor tab into the slot of the inner stub
to hold it in place. Then bend the remaining tabs to the
tapered surface of the inner stub.
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![](Images/237097-8.GIF)
8 |
Place the smaller O-ring into the
groove of the splice body and the larger O-ring into the
groove the threaded body. Slide the collar onto the center
of the stud. Join the two cables with the stud and make
sure that the right-hand and left-hand threads mate with
their respective inner stubs. Simultaneously screw the
stud into both inner stubs in turnbuckle action. Tighten
the collar with a 3/4" wrench and make sure that the inner
stubs are uniformly and firmly drawn together against the
collar.
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![](Images/237097-9.GIF)
9 |
Insert the spacer halves between
the cable ends as shown and screw the splice nut onto the
threaded body. Tighten the connection with wrenches --
hold the threaded body and turn only the splice nut to
50 lbf-ft (68 N-m).
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